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Do It Yourself (DIY) paradise for tube and SET project builders.

I have just started going down this path

68.212.128.13

Going the bi-amp/tri-amp route with an active crossover and pro audio drivers is such an eye opening experience I am floored.

I used to waste time on amps/caps/tube rolling...etc. Now I think none of that matters much....at least in comparison. Really if you consider the typical parts and the quality of them in a speaker crossover it begins to make sense.

No way you'd put a 20 or 100 mike coupling cap in your amp and if you did it would be a really nice and costly one. Given that you could have a dozen such caps in a pair of 3-way speakers you are forced to use metalized caps at best and typically not the top notch ones. Then you have inductors, the worst passive part ever made. Typically you have over a hundred feet of no name 14 gauge wire you are running through. And then the driver's impedances are anything but a constant for the crossover and the amp to work into.

Needless to say I could go on but it is time to head home. But rest assured a couple of sonic T amps with a good active crossover, a good compression driver on a CD horn, a nice pro audio paper cone mid, and a big old 15" or 18" pro audio woofer driven with a Bash plate amp will kick serious butt and won't sound nasty or grainy.

Yes, sometimes I think I might have lost some finess. But what I have gained in balls, detail, clairity, and lack of driver distortion more than makes up for it and makes my previous cone and dome speakers freaking over priced toys.

You can start small and add on. Pick a good mid range like the Visaton B200 or the Audax PR170MO and mount it on an open baffle run full range. Next add a compression driver and CD horn and go rent a decent active crossover from a pro audio store. By now you should have a good idea even though you will have no low bass.

Anyhow, got to run but I'll think of something more to add later I am sure:)


Russ


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