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after checking inside my Musical Fedelity A5 cd player, I have found that all the larger caps (470uf 100v and bigger) appear to be leaking ie a brown pool forming under each cap. The unit is out of warrenty, but I would like some feed back on a few issues.
The cd player has been sitting on top of the a5 intergrated amp but nether gets very hot, is it possible that heats a problem.
the cd player is awash with jamicon caps, considering that partsconnection are currently selling jamicon 4700uf 25v caps on special for $1.50 each (down from $1.95) I am far from confident about these caps, has any one else had reliability issues with them, remember that this is a $4000aud cd player
recommended caps ....Im contemplating sticking in a bunch of blackgates,has anyone found these to be good upgrade for a cd player
Follow Ups:
this is the glue they use to stick the caps to the pcb .....
if you poke it it should be hard but ultimately stringy as you pull it.
leaked goop will be goopy
My Trivista SACD uses brown glue on groups of PS caps. I doubt they're leaking. Do what Stu said. Leaking caps goo generally stays liquid it doesn't harden but may thicken over time, there's a difference. Upgrading those caps even if they were fine would benefit little. More critical caps are better grade.
ET
humm....
upgrading the caps in the xdacv3 and 10xv3 makes an enormous difference ..I've recapped six of these units now for various people reaping huge sonic gains. I tend to use pannasonic FC as the psu caps....the jamico brand used in the mf gear are at best poor.
If they have leaked you don't want to leave them in to long, the electrolyte can remove the varnish the protects the PCB copper from tarnishing.
MF are proberbly suffering from the bad cap disease from a few years ago, very few companies were immune
Taken from this thread at
"Now for the very bad news, for all my designs at Pink Triangle I used Nippon Chemi-Con LXF Low ESR capacitors, these appear to have a manufacture design fault, as electrolyte leaks outs from the bottom of the Capacitor and “Eats” the Copper PCB tracking – designs that are effected: -
Dacapo
DC (optional Battery supply for Dacapo)
Ordinal
Cardinal
PIP II+ (upgraded PIP 2 pre-amp with new battery pack)
Anniversary turntable (with Battery PSU)"
John Westlake
If they start to bulge the are bad too
Panasonic seem to have a very good reputation
Regards
James
HI.
A 4-grander CD player used cheap caps worth only 1 buck-half a pop?
My goodness. What more profitable business can it be???
c-J
PS: I guess my DIYed SS phonostage where I used only PP film caps throughout, gonna worth tons of money.
Antony Michaelson was quoted as saying he did not believe in the benefits of high end component parts.
But he charges high end prices for his Asian built gear....
Hi.
Get a chance to open up your expensive brandname loudspeaker cabinets & check the hook-up wires & the parts used in the x-over networks.
Very likely you would throw up.
c-J
which showed one of their $megabuck speakers with its crossover at the bottom of the page. $.45 cent electrolytics and crap coils.
We added up the approximate cost and came up with $3.65 for each crossover!
Shame on them.
Just for you jack,
I looked inside my focal micro utopias which retail for $10k ( I paid a bit less) and found the caps appear to retail for less than $5 each at percys audio...ie 3.6uf 250v in speaker compared to a close 3.9 uf 250v for $2.50 retail
I should say I still like the equipment that i purchased, but they could have been better for the price
The caps and the inductors are quite good enough. But I'd swap out those white "monkey coffin" resistors for some Mills. I think you find it worth the cost/trouble.
Russ
better than 90% of the high end crossovers I have seen.
Hi.
I upgrade audio components for audiophiles as my hobby job. IMO, 85% costly brandname speaker systems built like crap inside.
The image posted really shows a very quality built cross-over networks & good size quality hook-up wires given the high priscetag. Hard to find such nicely built speaker system inart nowadays.
Much much better than my stock KEF 2-way bookshelf speaker systems where I had to rebuild the entire X-over network into bi-wiring & replace ALL the cheapie tiny 'lytic caps with oversized non-polar PP film caps, & hookup wires to #12 gauge.
c-J
There are places to use hi grade caps in circuits and places where they are a waste. Your statement is unfounded.
ET
A company that charges top rate for a device and uses very cheap components is taking the p*ss I think. Even if the effect on sound quality is small in certain areas of the design, there is still a question of longevity and reliability. I wouldn't be happy paying that kind of money and finding cheap components inside.
Hi.
To substantiate your otherwise "unfounded" argument, tell us where & what "hi grade" caps are used inside the CD player?
c-J
Consider Nichicon and Elna caps. I've used both with great results and VERY good prices from Handmade Electronics. No relation, just a satisfied customer.
Many manufacturers will glue the caps to the board and a brown thick glue is quite common. Try scrapping a bit off and double checking. Electrolytic fluid is not thick and is very liquid: normally they leave a milky-white trail and appears a bit scaly (sorry, I don't know how else to describe it, but you'll notice a bit of crystalline content).
Stu
It is quite common for manufacturers to "glue" caps and other large but lighter weight components down. If you have ever seen PC boards being mass produced you know why.
Sure, you could use BGs if you wanted to spend a bunch of money. Personally, I would use Panasonic FM or FCs for normal leaded caps, or TSHAs for snap-ins (check to see what the palyer is using and physical sizes). The Pana's are 105 degree C rated caps, and low ESR. This is assuming that the caps in question are power supply bypass caps. Coupling caps would be another matter.
"Sure, you could use BGs if you wanted to spend a bunch of money"
Funny thing is, one of the best BG caps produced is the NX HiQ 0.47uF 50v, which, in an L cancelling pair, is an awesome decoupling device. They are less than $2 each.
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