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In Reply to: RE: UPC200 mod - question for Duster posted by JerryD6 on June 12, 2007 at 14:30:27
Hi Jerry,
I was wondering if the Oyaide R1's fit into the UPC-200 without modification? When replacing the stock power ports, you need to break off the tabs of out outlets. Unfortunately the oyaides don't have these tabs so I'm unsure as to how to make them fit.
I've got 3 SWO-XXX's in my system and I'd like to replace the outlets in my UPC-200 but it looks as though the Oyaide R1s won't fit.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Follow Ups:
Yes, the R1's don't quite fit as well as the 'shortened' power ports, but they can be installed with some effort. Replacing just one of the two outlets isn't too bad; replacing both is harder.
It is easier to replace the outlet furthest (right side) from the IEC inlet; this is because there is a flange on the inlet that interferes with the attachment ear on the R1. To replace the right side outlet, loosen the left (IEC side) outlet anchor screw as far as you can without removing the inner nut. Remove the other two anchor screws completely. Now install the R1. If you will not use the remaining power port, attach only the R1 with the center screw (the power port ear hits the R1 body and can't be attached; or you could file the ear). Retighten the left screw only enough to snug down the power port so that it isn't loose. When replacing the upc cover you'll see that the R1 ear just barely keeps it from sliding on all the way. However the four back panel screws can still be put in. If you do it this way just remember not to use the power port, since it is probably not well enough anchored to insert a plug. Hope this is clear enough.
Regards,
Jerry
Hi Jerry, thank you.
I'm sure that once I open up the UPC I'll be able to follow your instructions as they sound quite clear. I had replaced one of the power ports on the UPC-200 with one of my old FIM 880 outlets (I had them lying around as they were my first aftermarket outlets and last year I had them replaced with Oyaide SWO-XXX thanks to all the great contributions and posts by Duster, Kenster, etc.).
The FIM 880s have a lot warmer and rounder signature than the power ports (as well as a lot less distortion and "digital-sounding" hash) but nowhere near the resolution of the Oyaides.
The R1 sounds to be the way to go.
Thanks again.
I had visitors earlier and couldn't finish the post. I should have also mentioned a possible difficulty when connecting the wires to the R1.
As you loosen the terminal screws on the R1 look through the wire holes and watch the internal clamp. Do this for the hot terminal first (see why below) and loosen the screw just to the point where the clamp clears the holes. If the screw comes all the way out it's a real pain to get it back in without cross threading.
The neutral terminal is more of a problem. The clamp will not completely clear the holes unless the screw is removed. I don't think this is just a one-off, since all five of my R1s had this problem. This isn't a problem with solid core wire, but the upc has stranded and it is a bit difficult to insert the wires. Here's what worked for me. Loosen the neutral screw about the same as the hot screw so as not to remove it; this should give enough clearance. Attach the neutral wires first. Then attach the ground. The ground wire has a ring terminal end so you'll need to remove the ground screw (it goes back in easily). Finally attach the hot wires.
One more thing. When twisting the strands into a bundle, twist just enough so that the wire is stiff enough to insert (with no loose strands). Twisting more will increase the diameter and make it harder to insert.
Hope this helps.
Jerry
"If the screw comes all the way out it's a real pain to get it back in without cross threading."
Had this very thing happen on an R1 and if the screw does seperate from the clamp, one can remove the back strap from the outlet, seperate the 2 halves of the outlet body and this then gives access to the screws/clamps which can be reassembled and then just reverse order to reassemble the outlet.
Keep in mind that the backstrap has a VERY snug fit around the 2 halves and one needs to draw back on either the top or the bottom of the strap to release it from the outlet molding depressions.
Cheers,
~kenster
Thanks kenster, that's good to know. There is a rivet (or so it appears) on the back which I assumed held the backstrap to the body, obviously not.
Three of my R1s came with screws loose in the box. I got them back in, but managed to cross thread one. I put two metal skewers (for trussing birds) in the wire holes to hold the clamp against the screw hole and was able to get the screw threaded properly again. However it's nice to know you can repair/replace an internal part and not the whole outlet.
Regards,
Jerry
"There is a rivet (or so it appears) on the back which I assumed held the backstrap to the body, obviously not."
All my Oyaides have a small Phillips screw securing the backstrap which screws into an elongated nut/standoff which holds the 2 halves together and also provides the screw hole for the outlet cover.
Funny, I also managed to get a clamp screw cross threaded as well but after disassembling the outlet, I put the clamp in a vise and was then able to get the clamp screw in straight :-)
Cheers
Thanks Guys for your informative posts. They were a great help!
I received the R1 yesterday and was able to install it in my UPC-200 as per Jerry's instructions and managed to resolve a cross threading problem by taking the outlet apart as per kenster's posts. Next step would be to replace the inlet on the UPC-200 as per Duster's earlier post.
Overall, I'll let my system burn in for a while before making an ultimate decision but initially it does seem that the R1 has all of the positive characteriscs that others have already noted on the Asylum!
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