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Has anyone replaced the front glass plate on a McIntosh MX110z or similar?
When I removed the old glass plate(was cracked), there appears a strip of tape residue in the top and bottom channels. Was this some kind of foam stripping to prevent the glass from stressing? If so, can anyone recommend a good substitute to use? Would light weather stripping be appropriate if this is the case?
Also, I read somewhere that under penalty of death that I should not touch the tuner glass plate. I have to admit I am tempted to unclip it, and wipe off the dust behind it to help with clarity as it has a light film. The front wiped off nicely without risk of damaging the silk screen. I was led to believe that even the slightest touch to the rear of the glass would remove the lettering. If anyone has tried this would appreciate your feedback.
any advice appreciated..
thanks!
Follow Ups:
Hey everyone,I know it's been some time since this was posted, but just wanted to follow up on the glass plate scenario.
My inquiries can confirm that both Audio Classics and Radio Daze, cannot produce the tuner glass. This due to McIntosh's lawyers getting involved. They issued a cease production order on anything with the "McIntosh" name on it.
So you can get the outside glass from Radio Daze like I did, as it does not have the name on it (I know strange) , but you cannot get the tuner glass as it has the McIntosh name on it - Booo!
Of course many of you on the forum know how obsessed I am, this did not stop me. I could not deal with the caked on dust on the tuner glass, it was so hazy, I know that it could not be cleaned without destroying the lettering. This thing must have been in an auto body shop I swear. I spent 3 days straight recreating and outlining the tuner glass in a vector file, measurement per measurement on every graphic. I then sent the vector file to a high quality printer in New Jersey. I had a couple pieces of 1/8 in glass cut in the mean time.
The print was done in reverse on ultra clear high quality vinyl, and I just recently applied it to the glass (some trial and error of course). Bingo!. It is very clear and crisp. There is a tiny bit of orange peal, unlike silk screen on a clear glass, however, once the glass is set in front of the black mounting plate, it is not noticeable at all, looks very much like the real deal. OK you and I know it's not, but I could not live with hazed out dust..
Now just waiting for the lawyers to call..
that is all folks...
Edits: 01/21/21
Hello everyone who has found this thread,
Since I have posted this story, I have received dozens of requests for the file. Some were not AA members and just joined to contact me. Obviously people have searched very hard to find a solution and dig deep enough to find this buried thread.
On a previous project I "gave" someone my file after months of work, so they could use it to fix "their" unit. Months later my file and hard work were being sold in multiples on eBay from my file without permission. So much for just one individual.
I am sympathetic but I am not going to "give away" the file. The pain staking hours to re create it were laborious and tedious, as are all my previous re- lettering projects. Fonts do not exist and I have to recreate vector by vector each letter and spacing individually. Then time with the printer as well.
As stated, it cannot be sold or exchanged as it bears the McIntosh logo and name, so I could not make an .NFT and charge some reasonable fee either. So that is not an option.
I am willing to give pointers on how you can create your own and do it yourself. If you are willing to be patient. You'll need some dial calipers, and a vector art program like Adobe Illustrator. You can not recreate these using Photoshop or a rasterized image program. The resolution will not hold up to printing on such small lettering.
I hate to sound difficult, but I hope this explains why I have not answered any requests for this.
You can do it with some patience and breaking it up into parts. Good luck!
That is all...
Thank you for the follow up-
I hear your frustration, and it is real-
I have a collection of documents on some old equipment; however I have it because I was an employee- (Company now defunct)
for a friend/fellow hobbyist, I would gladly share-
But to have that be a path to someone else profiting off the trust - that is reprehensible-
Glad you were able to get you unit back into great condition-
Happy Listening
6bq5, I totally understand what you mean, and I was operating just how you described. I appreciate the follow-up as well.
It came out really nice, crisp and sharp. Considering both glass pieces are new, it should should look really nice. I do not like seeing ones that are all dull, faded, and dusty, these look too sharp to be in that condition.
Again, it was a lot of work, but anyone with the right mind set can do it.
Hello,
That seems a great achievements.
I'm in the same spot as you were. I'm looking for a replacement inner glass (for the later model) and as of today its not possible to find It anywhere.
May i ask if you would be willing to share the file you produced?
Thank you very much in advance for any help you can give me.
AB
Cleaning is an interesting question. I have (don't know where at this time) an old catalog of McIntosh stuff ca. 1968 or so? Anyway, toward the back they have a picture of a tuner getting a final cleaning of the inside of the glass panel. The woman doing the cleaning is using a long q-tip (that's what it looks like). So... I'm not recommending this, just thought it was interesting to share. Which I could put my hands on it, I'd post a picture.
...from a page in the "free" FM station directory Mac published that was really mostly product promotion material. Still pretty cool.
This was the "centerfold image" of this particular guide.
From my half vast collection of early Mac lit. No date on the publication but since the vast majority of FM stations listed did not broadcast in stereo, I'm guessing early 60s just after FCC approval of GE/Zenith multiplex system.
Edits: 01/06/21
Yeah, that first picture was the one I was referring to! Cool
your link doesn't work
...somehow an "https//" got entered into the "optional link url" field. Fixed for now.
You heard correctly: the lettering on the inner glass can be extremely fragile, so don't touch it. Even with the softest makeup brush, if you apply enough pressure to remove dust, you will likely remove lettering. If you lay it down and try to clean the front side, you will likely jiggle it enough so the lettering on the back breaks up. Absolutely no compressed air. So either live with the dust, or, as someone else suggested, get a new dial from Audio Classics if they have them.
WW
"They were running on fumes, dazed and confused, in a high-powered automobile."
The print is silk screened on and at this point, VERY fragile. When I took out my Marantz dial I could see flakes of it peeling off.
If the worst case scenario happens I believe you have options.
Audio Classics can source reproduction plates.
OR
If the silk screening gets wiped out then contact Radio Daze. They did a wonderful job reproducing my Marantz 18 dial plate.
I cannot find it on Audio Classic's site but I did find information on Radio Daze site, that they were to terminate all production on any plate with the word "McIntosh" on it. It looks like McIntosh's lawyers got involved and sent them a cease and desist order in 2018.. lame..
https://www.radiodaze.com/mcintosh-graphics/
Contact AudioClassics by phone. They don't sell them "on their site", but have a supplier that "gets them".
cool, I'll give them the secret code.."lemon tree" ;)
thanks appreciated!
Steve O and 6bq5, thank you, that is good information, I didn't know that the foam pieces you referred to was to prevent light leaking.
However, I wanted to know if the channel in the top and bottom edge slot (the slot in the aluminum panel and the top bracket) - see the image I attached in the post, is this also supposed to be foam that is running the entire length of to the top and bottom of the glass?
thanks again!
My MX110 had foam only on the ends of the glass. Your photo seems to show traces of something running laterally along the bottom rail too so I see the basis of your question but can't answer it definitively. As I'm sure you know, Mac was known to introduce design changes mid run and didn't always document them.
~!
The Mind has No Firewall~ U.S. Army War College.
Awesome! thanks for the reply, I think I am going to do the same..
Having replaced the tuner string on an MR-74,
Some of the Foam & tape is to prevent the lights from bleeding out of the designed spaces - I am sure that there is some of that...
As to cleaning behind the glass - there are some old photos and videos of assembly in the G. Gow years that show technicians using long sticks w/ cotton swabs to deftly remove ....
Good luck-
Happy Listening
There's a strip of black foam that runs parallel to the festoon lamp on each side of the dial glass. The foam is used to block light from the lamps from getting out beyond the glass so it looks like the lettering glows. You can use black self adhesive weatherstrip foam cut to proper dimensions. In most cases the lettering is extremely fragile at this age and will come off at the slightest touch....so do whatever you want to the glass but don't physically touch the lettering with anything and don't let solvents or cleaners come into contact with with it either.
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