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I tried to solder Furutech FI-10 15A IEC inlet last night as a mod on my UPC-200. I borrow a solder from a friend ( i think it's 35W). After soldering, i don't think the connection is strong. There is a hole in each IEC tab. Do i need to twist the wire to the tab first before soldering?I'm thinking of replacing it with FI-10 because it's easier to install (screw type)
thanks.
Edits: 07/30/07 07/30/07 07/30/07Follow Ups:
I recently replaced the stock inlets on three upc200s with the Furutech FI-10, screw type connections. These make a very good mechnical connection. I didn't feel that they needed to be soldered as well. I haven't compared with the FI-10 tab type (didn't know they existed), but the screw type must be mounted on the outside, unless you want to file out the opening. With outside mount the neutral wire will just barely reach if you're careful not to cut off too much (cut right at the clip on connector). The screw type installs fairly easy other than the short neutral wire.
Regards,
Jerry
thanks, JerryD6.
Do you know which brand of internal wires inside UPC-200 by any chance?
Don't know what internal wire PSA uses. If you're asking this because the neutral might be too short and you're thinking of putting in a new piece, there may be another way. Also, it looks like the board the neutral is attached to would have to be removed for the soldering, which is a pain.
The problem is this. When installing the FI-10 (screw type terminals) it is easiest to put it in with the opposite orientation of the original plug, so that the screws face to the outside; otherwise they face the duplex outlet and can't be tightened. This means that the neutral wire must now be connected to the top terminal (instead of the bottom) which requires a bit more length. An alternative would be to put in the FI-10 with screws facing the duplex and remove one or both duplexes so you can tighten the screws. Hopefully the neutral is long enough to reach the (now bottom) neutral terminal. Of course the only way to be sure is to get an FI-10 and try it.
Hope this helps.
Jerry
Thanks, Jerry. Great idea. Taking off the outlet to leave space for connecting IEC ground first is easier.
for instance, if you position a wire lead to its intended solder connection point, depending on how you position it, the lead *may* want to rest against the solder point (good mechanical connection) OR want to migrate from the solder point. You always want to position the wire so that it has a good mechanical connection. Depending on the wire gauge, you can insert the lead through the holes on the prongs. Not all heavy gauge wire will fit.
Also, depending on the size of your iron, you may have to heat up the blade for several seconds before positioning the wire to the joint to which you will then apply solder.
One thing I'm curious about that perhaps a more experienced DIY'r can field is whether the splayed strands are a bad thing as a result of bending heavy guage stranded AC wire in order to make a strong mechanical connection? Heavy guage stranded wires always seems to splay when bent even if you apply solder to the tip beforehand.
I stick in an unconnected IEC plug when soldering the inlet for use as a heat sink and to prevent those little prongs from wiggling with heat. A bit of external flux is also of great help in soldering the think wire to the prongs.
I do not believe the splayed ends are an issue as long as you solder all the strands to the tab. In fact I prefer the splayed approach as you then have more copper making a closer contact to the the tab. I usually am quite generous with the solder I apply, making a nice fillet on the mating surfaces, and I will use heat shrink over the connection afterwards to insure contact. You can also wrap the wire around the tab before soldering for a stronger mechanical fitting.
For a soldered joint, the UL perceived danger is that a continuous high current draw can melt the solder and lead to a short circuit, hence their recommendation for a mechanical joint (although you can then solder the mechanical joint). Don't use undersized wire in this case, although your internal fuses should kick in before such an event occurs.
Stu
thanks for the tip.
I will try one more time and i'll probably get the screw typ inlet. It may be easier to work with even though i don't know which connection is the best (soldering or screw type).
You might need more heat, or have to hold the soldering iron tip a long time against what you want to solder.
Try getting solder onto the wire first, then get solder onto the part you want to solder to, putting them in touch with each other and then soldering them.
It might help to have a friend hold another 35 watt iron on the outlet.
Bob
A novice in basic electronics; verify anything I post with an expert.
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