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Does anybody in this forum have any experience with building downward firing sugwoofers?/ and if so would they please pass on said knowledge
Follow Ups:
What's a sugwoofer? I have experience building slugwoofers , if that's what you mean. The bass just sort of creeps up on you, and the slime is sublime.
Seriously, let me ask you to clarify -- why is your title referring to isobaric clamshells and the text to downward firing subwoofers? Are you interested in building a downward-firing isobaric clamshell subwoofer?
My personal feeling is that unless you have twice as many drivers as you need just sitting around gathering dust, or perhaps you want to reduce the volume of your enclosure by using drivers in an isobaric clamshell configuration, you are better off NOT going to isobaric clamshell for a subwoofer.
If you have enough space for two woofers per enclosure, a better approach is to put one on each end of the enclosure with one driver inverted and reverse wired so you get a push-pull effect with some cancellation of distortion. The cancellation of distortion, along with the fact that each driver has to work only half as hard as a single driver in the same situation, means the sound quality should be noticeably better. An added advantage is that the cancellation of vibrations will keep the subwoofer from shaking or even tending to "walk" across the floor. I'm in the process of building a pair of subs like this that will do double duty as stands for my main speakers. Normally a subwoofer is the last thing I would want for a speaker stand, but these should be extremely vibration-free and ought to do just fine.
BTW if you are after sound quality another reason to consider steering away from a downward firing subwoofer is that you have the effects of gravity to deal with. A heavy subwoofer cone gets pulled down by gravity, which "helps" on the downward stroke and "hinders" on the upward stroke, and this in itself is an element of distortion. Whether anyone can hear the difference is another matter entirely . . .
Just my two cents.
OK apologies for not spell checking, and I have 4 spare 300mm bass drivers with great graphs but huge VAS, so the isobaric was a means of avoiding huge boxes and still achieving the power handling.
it was a thought to avoid difraction spreading loss as well, what are your thoughts on bi-polar bass??
That last octave is proving to be hard to get, perhaps i should stick with ELF sub's instead
If you have four drivers and a need to get Vas down, yes, definitely go for isobaric. I have no experience with bi-polar bass so I can't comment beyond regurgitating what others have said online . . .
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