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Image: Brainerd 64330 zinc die cast AC outlet wall plate (Liberty Hardware Mfg. Corp.)
I find the Oyaide WPC-Z wall mount system to be a thing of beauty and well worth the coin, but I can only afford to use one for my main system’s Oyaide R1 Beryllium AC outlet. That issue left my bedroom system’s Oyaide SWO-XXX AC outlet with lesser-cost wall plate options to choose from. I considered a Furutech wall plate, but stuck to a Cooper non-magnetic stainless steel wall plate found at Lowe’s (for 2 bucks), instead.
Besides the Cooper brand selections, Lowe’s has a rather full selection of Brainerd and Betsyfieldsdesign decorator wall plates available (both brands are Liberty Hardware Mfg. Corp. products). I had previously passed on them since the stainless steel models are magnetic -- even the wood models implement a magnetic steel backing for mounting strength. However, I recently noticed a few very hefty feeling zinc die cast wall plates that are non-magnetic and pretty nice looking designs (a plus). A Brainerd model 64330 zinc die cast wall plate caught my eye, so I bought one to see how it might compare with a far more low-mass Cooper non-magnetic stainless steel wall plate.
While the Brainerd zinc die cast wall plate’s design level is nowhere near that of an Oyaide WPC-Z milled aluminum frame, I do find that I like what it does for a mere 6 bucks vs. the 2 buck Cooper non-magnetic stainless steel wall plate. While not jawdropping, it does provide better fleshed-out imaging and a more solid soundstage presentation, IME. Not a huge betterment, but notable nonetheless.
BTW, while zinc die cast is non-magnetic, the screw that comes with the wall plate *is* magnetic, so a non-magnetic stainless screw replacement would be a good thing. FYI, some types of audio product designs implement diecast Zinc, such as XLR jack shells, loudspeaker driver baskets/frames, etc., so it’s not such a taboo material for an audiophile to give a try :-)
The Liberty Hardware Mfg. Corp. web site shows a number of zinc die cast wall plate model designs to choose from (other than the 64330) including double duplex wall plates, and Lowe’s carries a few of them (some models offered as special order), so take a look around the web site using their search function:
- http://www.libertyhardware.com/search/detail/?searchType=retail&ID=64330&FIN=BSP (Open in New Window)
Follow Ups:
Duster, where can I get a non-magnetic stainless screw from?
I think Lowe's and Home Depot sell stainless steel screws in their fasteners sections, but I don't know if they are non-magnetic. A non-magnetic brass screw would be fine, too. The Cooper non-magnetic stainless steel wall plate includes one if you are willing to pay $2 just to use it's screw ;-)
Thanks Duster for the information. I just installed the Brainerd plate, replacing the Cooper non-magnetic plate(using the non-magnetic screw), and like it a lot. In my system , in addition to all your findings, the bass also got tighter, deeper and more defined. I also bought the 'Betsyfiledsdesign' zinc die cast plate and which feels a bit more heavier. Will try it later. Thanks again for sharing.
I went to Lowes and got this one.
I agree that this is much better than the Cooper non-magnetic SS. One good thing is the sibilance is gone! (As i have another thread in this room about the sibilance on Cooper wall plate that i have to put the plastic one back) I'm happy now.
I am thingking of putting the foam insulation behind the wall plate to see if it can control more resonance?
Try a foam gasket and listen to what happens... you may or may not like the result. I've found that while the Brainerd 64330 zinc die cast wall plate provides less vibration damping/rings more than the more massive Oyaide WPC-Z machined aluminum frame, my experiments with Herbie's Audio Lab grungebuster material (rather than foam) functioning as a gasket device has shown (to my ear) that the most rigid mounting method of a metal frame/wall plate to the drywall surface seems to be a better approach than to place a compliant (pliable) material between them. Some sort of external damping method may be of benefit, though. YMMV
I attach the picture
in reading the archives the upgraded plate is for damping and RFI rejection. What would be a relatively inexpensive upgrade to a standard plastic cover plate if my boxes are plastic, or does it not matter if the boxes are plastic or metal?
Hi RioTubes,
I don’t think it matters if the wall box is metal or plastic, since I believe the primary benefit of a wall plate such as this is to provide a level of vibration/resonance control rather than to address EMI/RFI issues. When compared to a typical flimsy wall plate, I think a very solid wall plate such as this simply offers a more rigid mounting system for an AC outlet (a firmer foundation) which improves the mechanical aspects of an AC outlet’s electrical performance -- it may improve the inherent ability of a high-performance-designed AC outlet to address vibration/resonance issues. A backing or facing of the wall plate with carbon fiber material may be of benefit regarding EMI/RFI issues.
The way I installed my particular wall plate was in a manner that provides the most rigid interface between the *front* of the SWO-XXX AC outlet and the *drywall surface* rather than between the AC outlet and the wall box as is the norm... meaning, I loosened the AC outlet’s two mounting screws fastened into the wall box just enough so that “the primary grip” takes place between the drywall surface and the edges of the wall plate; the screw at the front-and-center of the AC outlet body does “most of the mounting work”. Again, this method allows the rigid wall plate to have a firm grip on both the center of the AC outlet’s body and the drywall rather than via the AC outlet’s backstrap and the wall box.
Another method perhaps worth exploring would be to mount the AC outlet directly to the die cast zinc wall plate: First, drill two holes through the wall plate exactly where the AC outlet’s backstrap mounting holes are positioned, then firmly mount the AC outlet directly to the wall plate via the center screw, then push the two backstrap mounting screws through the two holes and firmly secure the wall plate to the wall box. This method would perhaps provide the firmest interface between all elements involved.
Duster, this mimics my experience with non-magnetic cast aluminum outdoor plates to approximate Oyaide mechanical damping and RFI shielding.
Please refer to Al Sekela's take on how to attache plates and outlets properly to a metal wall box, though. I find following his advice on that to be spot on!
I face mine with carbon fiber. Works like the Oyaide does to some degree or other...
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