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Up until a couple of weeks ago I had a 2018 Mac mini with Ventura running a Topping D10S DDC with no problems. A couple of weeks ago I got an M2 Mac mini which is running Sonoma and it refuses to recognize the Topping no matter how I try to connect it.
Is there any way to get the M2 Mac mini to recognize the Topping D10S? Do any of you know of a reasonably priced DDC that will run with the M2 Mac Mini so that I can listen to my music once again?
Follow Ups:
Hello,
To give meaningful troubleshooting advice will require more information, but here are some initial thoughts.
You say that the D10S is working okay with a different Mac, so presumably the problem is something upstream of the unit itself.
I assume you are connecting the D10S to the Mini using a USB Type B to Type A cable. Does the D10S get power when you plug it in or stay totally dark? Have you tried plugging in a different device like an external drive to make sure the port and cable are working properly?
Open Audio Midi Setup from Applications. Your D10S should show up as a choice. If not, try a different USB A port (there are two) or try a different cable.
I think the D10S gets its power from the USB bus, so it probably doesn't have a power switch. Try booting up the Mini first, log in, then plug in the USB cable from the D10S. If still dead, try re-plugging a couple of times with different ports/cables and try rebooting the Mini with the D10S already plugged in using a cable that you know is good.
Final question: You don't publish your system, so we can't tell what else might be going on. You refer to the D10S as a "DDC" (digital to digital converter). Are you using it that way, as a bridge to a different DAC (digital to analog converter)? Or are you using it as a stand-alone DAC?
I hope this helps as a starting point. Others may have different thoughts.
. . . in theory, practice and theory are the same; in practice, they are different . . .
1 - Does the USB powered Topping D10S light up when plugged into one of the Mac Mini USB-A ports? If not, no sense in going any further. There's no power switch on the DAC/DDC. Check the USB cable. Try another USB-A port.2 - Does the Topping D10S show up in Audio MIDI Setup? If not, try rebooting the Mac. Now does it show up in Audio MIDI Setup?
3 - Assuming you can "see" the D10S in Audio MIDI Setup, right-click it then select "Use This Device for Sound Output".
4 - Play some music. Does the D10S display show the sample-rate?
5 - If it shows the sample rate and there's no sound then it is likely to be something downstream from the DAC/DDC. Are those downstream components powered ON and working? Cables all connected?
Audio MIDI Setup on Mac
In this example you see my SMSL USB DAC in the screenshot above.Extra Stuff:
Go to Spotlight Search on your Mac (the magnifying glass upper right corner of your screen). Type "System Information" [Enter]. In the left pane click on USB. Your DAC should appear in the USB Tree.
System Information on Mac
In this example you see my SMSL USB DAC in the USB tree above.
Edits: 12/16/24
I started by trying to connect the D10s to the other USB Type A port on my Mac Mini with no results so I returned to trying the original port and for some reason it was successful.
Thank you for all of your help. In the future I'll try some simple solutions before I come here for help.
Glad to hear you were able to get it working. Thanks for following up to let us know. Things can get frustrating, and there is nothing wrong with asking for advice. Sometimes making the effort to articulate the question can help to find the answer.
. . . in theory, practice and theory are the same; in practice, they are different . . .
...and get another set of eyes on the problem. We've all been there. I certainly have!
like the joke, just get out and back in. Problems often solved that way!
For cold starts of my DAC/endpoint, I found that I need to unplug the DAC before switching on as there seems to be some manner of standby. USB can be persnickety.
True. USB can be finicky sometimes on power-up or cable swapping. I just leave most of my digital powered ON 24/7 as they draw such little power.
I shut down everything including unplugging the stats. Once lost a couple of devices due to electrical storms while away so I'm a bit more careful.
Not related, but I got a free new service from State Farm that you might find cool. It's called Ting and it constantly monitors your electrical system. You plug the device into an outlet and configure to communicate via WiFi. We were given only one box so technically the upstairs isn't covered as it has its own breaker box but still is said to watch for disturbances caused by devices in your home, fire, etc.
Long term voltage for the past month in service has ranged from 124 to 129V averaging about 127.
Looks like Ting monitors and alerts but it wasn't clear to me that it actually protects. Per National Electric Code (NEC) newer homes require AFCI breakers that protect from arcing. These breakers provide arc-fault and overcurrent protection. Our breaker panel is full of them. I'm not sure if you can simply plug these into an existing older panel. I haven't researched it.But I like the idea that Ting works over Wifi and the App logs and displays your AC Voltage remotely to your phone. If there's a power outage Ting must alert you after the fact when the power comes back ON.... unless their service is constantly poling the Ting and THEY alert you rather than the device.
What do you get if you own two Tings?
I have an old relatively inexpensive datalogger that captures and charts AC line voltage over time.
Datalogger for AC voltage and current
I measured the outlet in our dining room several years ago and learned that it sags about 3-volts under heavy load.
I haven't yet measured the 20A dedicated circuit for AV gear in the basement. The basement was finished a couple years ago.
Edits: 12/19/24 12/19/24 12/19/24
I had an outlet in my office that was protected by an Eaton arc fault breaker. It was arcing like crazy, with sparks / flames coming out of the front sockets. The worthless arc fault breaker did nothing!
That's crazy! Something must have gone wrong - obviously!
Edits: 12/19/24
Per National Electric Code (NEC) newer homes require AFCI breakers that protect from arcing.
Ours is forty some years old albeit modernized with multiple remodeling projects.
The only *protection* is via notification and commitment to provide certain repair services.
An additional unit would be used upstairs to monitor the breaker box found there controlling the two bedrooms, listening room and two baths. There is yet another box outside which controls main level HVAC, sprinkler system, pool pump and associated lights.
Similarly, there are twin water heaters, one for east rooms and one for west.
Twin water heaters? Seems like a big house. Are they electric water heaters? We have one main breaker panel and a sub-panel in the basement. Ting.
I'm not an electrician but I believe they also make GFI outlets that are also arc-fault protected. In any case, the Ting seems like a good idea especially with the monitoring service.
Are they electric water heaters?50 gl gas located at each end of house accessible via walk in attics. 4000 sq ft home.
Edits: 12/24/24
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