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In a couple of posts,
https://www.audioasylum.com/forums/hug/messages/19/190156.html
and
https://db.audioasylum.com/mhtml/m.html?forum=hug&n=190000&highlight=tomservo+foam&search_url=/cgi/search.mpl&r=
tomservo suggests an experiment that uses foam on flat baffle. My question is about the type of foam that should be used. 1/2 inch foam is available in densities all the way from very soft ester foam (like that used in squishy egg-crate foam) through fairly stiff polyethylene on to inflexible styrofoam sheet. Does anybody here know what the intended purpose of the foam would be? . . . . and therefore what density would suit?
Thanks !
Follow Ups:
Soft , so it will make a nice little horn when the driver is mounted and to damp any reflections back to the baffle.
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
Hey, thanks for that ! You know, I'd never in a million years have guessed that was part of it. I was thinking: Is it supposed to be non-reflective or supposed to damp resonance of the baffle itself? The horn like depression completely escaped my imagination.
Thanks GM. Your input is much appreciated. I.
Hi
There would be a very slight "horn loading" but the main part is minimizing secondary radiations that effect the stereo image.
A more detailed explanation is here although more aimed at studio sound but applies in the home as well.
Tom
I hope continued questions on this aren't asking too much.
Doing a little noodling around, enclosing the rear of the driver with BassBox as it already has the T&S data. Of course it's calculating the response with the baffle dimensions for the prism.
My question is , Will the larger baffle simply extend low frequency or will it create a hump at the bottom end of Bassbox's calculated range?
If that's how it works then in short, how should I approach design of the rear enclosure?
(Incidentally, Green trace was about 2 litre volume, Red is the 10 litre)
Thanks !
Hi
No problem. For a sealed box, there is less of an ideal size than with vented, however in your prediction, you can see the larger volume gives a response shape with a lower "Q". Generally speaking a Q of .7 to around .6 is ideal and the red curve would be the lower Q of them.
IF one made the box much smaller, you would see the Q rise and that would accompany a bump at the bottom end.
Off hand, any of those curves would be good and not exaggerating anything.I would add loosely fill the back with cotton padding or fiberglass if sealed
IF you use these with a subwoofer later on, the sealed box is the way to go.
Edits: 11/13/24
just built a pair of these and I am very happy with the imaging and clarity they provide! I have them setting a little above ear level about 12 feet away from my listening chair. They provide a nice "curtain" of sound.
I placed them on top of my Edgarhorns and they sound almost as good as the edgarhorn tractrix horn that have B&C DCX462 drivers in them!
I need to find a good place to set them up permanently, with a sub, to amaze people - lol.
Nice! I am glad you tried it, that is an amazing little driver and illustrates what radiation from a single point in time and space does for the stereo image (makes a strong phantom image). You can EQ if you want and you will hear it's limits if you ask for too much bass.
Next time you feel like trying something, move them closer to you and farther from the walls. If you halve the distance, you raise the peak about SPL 6dB and reduce the "room sound" part of it by around the same amount.
The should present a somewhat different and even better listening experience.
At desk top distance / use, they lack nothing and still don't intrude in the stereo image .
I will try moving them closer to me, perhaps using some sawhorses as a base.
Nice work. Modern drivers are so much more refined as direct radiators or for horns.
Thanks Tom
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