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For good soldering, it needs time & patience. (long)

HIi.

So you're apparently an electronics production or service guy using hi-watt hand soldering stations day in day out where quick soldering needs in your job. For desoldering OLD joints, as I already said, 40W iron is OK.

But for working on your own new audio gears, I'd strongly recommend you to treat them gently by using LOWER wattage iron for better joints.

To substantiate what I said, hereunder is an extract from an "Application Note" on hand-soldering published by a well-known SS rectifers manufacturer:-

"First do NOT allow the lead temperature mesured at the interface of the lead & the package (component)to exceed 300C. Soldering time above 250C(482C) & below 300C (572F) should be limited to less than 5 seconds."

Lower temp of iron will allow the joint to go through the pre-heat stage, preflow stage, reflow stage to dwell stage (molten stage at max temp) properly to permit good joint. Too fast the thermal risetime will cause thermal stress, thus possible microspic crack in the joints, or even the components involved.

For this technical reason, I use 25W for soldering new joints. I take my time to make a good joint with the aid of water wett cotton Q-tips to drain away the heat despite it takes longer to do the joint properly. I check up how shiny & rounded the soldered bead on the joint under a magnetifying glass-light.

For good sound, take nothing for granted, my friend.

The 6-W (powered by 3xAA battereis) soldering pen I am using, does NOT use arcing to solder. Where you got this idea from?

It is the tip using specially compounded alloys & cast in special geometry to provide this super hi efficiency thermal transfer. BTW, such special designed tip formula is a proprietary patent by the manufacturer which gave me this solder pen as a free-sample for me to test it out.

Soldering is part of the everyday process of DIYs, but don't take it for granted the way you like. There is hell of know-how in it.

c-J


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