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Chorus of Chorus II ?

Posted by djk (M) on August 18, 2007 at 06:03:51

In Reply to: Thinking of buying Klipsch Chorus posted by desert dweller on August 17, 2007 at 10:47:18:

The Chorus II is better than the original Chorus. It is easily identified by the passive radiator on the back of the cabinet the original is ported on the front.

" It sounds like the boxes have some wear. What should I look for when evaluating their condition?"

Just make sure the corners are not crushed and the backs and fronts don't rattle (you can hit then with your fist), anything else is largely cosmetic and can be repaired (or not) to your taste. Speakers are best bought locally. Original shipping containers help, but do not insure that they can be shipped without damage. You can also pay more for local product as the end price will be the same.

"My room is 12 x 18, is this big enough for these speakers?"

Yes.

"Do they need any kind of stands?"

No.

"How far from walls is optimal?"

Varies, they are quite flexible. The speaker needs to be a bit away from the back wall for the PR. I prefer be able to see down the throats of the horns, it generally gives the best soundstage, imaging, depth, etc.

"I have a couple of 35-watt push-pull EL34 tube amps (Dynaco, CJ) and an EL84 Fisher 400 receiver. I listen to both vinyl and cd, a lot of acoustic music, folk, jazz, bluegrass plus a little of everything else including some classical."

They should sound fine on that mix.

"I currently use Spendor 2/3s (86 dB I think) w/a sub and while they're pretty nice, I'm looking for more presence on vocals and instruments, as well as bigger soundstage and more precise imaging."

The Chorus II is pretty solid down to 35hz or so in most rooms, if you play explosions and such you may want to keep your sub connected. I think you will like the presence of these speakers, they are 'there' without being really forward. Precise imaging will require toeing-in (as desribed above), and cutting off the push-on connectors of the wiring harness and soldering them straight to the drivers. While you have everything apart, replace the capacitors with new polypropylene, any brand sounds better than the old mylar caps they used. Make sure the tweeters work OK, replacement parts are available at reasonable prices if needed (if the previous owner had a 100W+ amp and was into thrash metal).

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