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I am wondering if there are any tweekers that have tried these or other audiophile type fuses. If so, what are your thoughts.
All comments appreciated.Bart
Follow Ups:
I use AHP fuses from Germany. They are very good comparing to normal glass or ceramic fuses. They simply genarete much less distortion than industrial fuses do. And it's consequences are: lower noise floor, more low level detail, ... That's more musicality.
Using these audiograde fuses is not primarily a dynamic issue.
If you want more dynamic, use an appropriate circuit breaker instead.
I use breakers in my power monos. They are 5 amp breakers, but this series is designed from 0.1 - 100A. This means they have extrmely robust brass contact. The on/off switch was also removed from my monoblocks, using the breaker's switch only as on-off. The original switch was a 16A switch only, and completelly unnecessary with the breaker.
In the CD player, tuner & phono I use still AHPs. They have 1A and below fuses, and I'm a bit sceptic that breakers will operate with these low-consumption devices as fine as in the 5A range. But I will try it as soon as I can get appropriate breaker in this low amperage range.
There are a lot of additional AC tweaks. I was settled up an independent electric meter, multipath with solid core 6N monocrystal cables to the hifi. Independent of my house wireing. It is legal at my country. What a different !
And does the power supply of your devices also run at optimum ?
I don't think so. Maybe you can find better caps, diodes, ...
Eg. silicium diodes most common in power supplies are producing meassurable and audible noise. So does digital sources.
Unfortunatelly, the principles and parts used in the hifi are so imperfect relative to the resolution of the human earth.
because they are not fuses!
First of all I think power amps are where it really matters. Fuses contribute to a lack of dynamics and realism. It's one reason why I use cut and Simichrome polished brass and aluminum same size tubing. Any hobby shop should have them. Try listening to Bill Bruford's trademark snare pop with and without and you'll be sold too.
Of course I only go "sans fuses" with equipment I really trust and never with my tube equipment. I'm confident I can fix any damage which might occur. But since I have practiced this since the late '70s, first with my Kenwood L-07MII monoblocks without a hitch, I'm forever sold. The difference in dynamics is immediately noticeable. It's not subtle.
I tried this with various preamps and I could not hear any difference so I use ceramics there.
If you are reckless and a danger to yourself and your gear, don't try this.
I just cannot live that dangerously. You are right, however, that the best fuse is none.
Why would I not believe you? What's certain is the huge difference no fuse makes in power amps. The huge current spike caused by charging caps makes it obvious as to why. That hair thin wire is nothing but a finger in the dam.
I've never blown a fuse anywhere since I became interested in audio in the early '70s. I'm super careful with everything and do not start out with the tubular jumper until I've played the amp for awhile to make sure everything is kosher. With my collection of vintage gear, I don't go fuseless until after a ground up restoration is fully tested.
I have had failures where the fuse did not blow.
And I bypassed the fuse and power switch in my EAR834P phono preamp for a substantial increase in resolution.
I'm braver than most as I still have it hooked up this way, that is until I reverted back to digital.
If I decide to go back to vinyl, it will be sans fuse/switch again :-)
Cheers
I use the Cryo Parts ceramic fuses in my amp and pre. Very noticible level of refinement,"calmness" and clarity with the one in the amp. Less noticible in the pre. Also dabbed the ends with Mapleshade silclear and that also seemed to add a little something good.I'd put one in my CDP too, if it weren't such a PIA do to system configuration...
"I always play jazz records backwards, they sound better that way"
-Thomas Edison
I am a big believer in upgrading stock fuses. Great leverage upgrading what must be the weakest component part in otherwise good electronics.But remember with fuses, audiophile or otherwise (except for HiFi-Tuning fuses which use a silver melt wire), that the copper base metal element is corroding and sonically degrading over time, hence the documentation with the Isoclean fuse telling you to change your fuses every 6 months. Makes for at least one good reason to go for the silver HiFi-Tuning fuses!
a
Where do you get your IsoClean fuses ? Cost ?
i bought mine for $25 here...
Thanks much for your quick and very informative reply. I now have to get my spouse to win the lottery. My CD player (Cambridge Audio Azur 640C , more about that later) has 4 2A fuses; my preamp also has 4 fuses (one for each rail in each channel), but my amp has only one 5A fuse. Unfortunately, I have long ago found that the closer to the source of the signal an improvement is made the more pronounced its' effect. Nonetheless, I'll spring for a 5A for the amplifier.Viel danke, mein freund !
I use the Cryo Parts cermaic fuses that have been cryo'd and noticed a small improvement for the better.However, I would suggest that other AC related issues be addressed first before turning attention to the fuses.
Have U addressed your mains AC receptacle? If your using a power conditioner, have U addressed the male AC plug that mates to the mains AC receptacle? Have U addressed the receptacles in the PC?
JMHO,
~kenster
I have tried the HiFiPlus fuses and don't like them as much in either direction I tried them. I would suggest trying one to see what you hear.
nt
__________________
Hi Norm, thnaks for the comment. How did you determine the correct direction?Bart
Find out which ac lead goes to the transformers.The arrow should point to the transformers. What pkell44 says is correct, but in my experience my method, learned from the people at IsoClean yields the same results in the several instance where I tried them.
Install the fuse pointing in one direction and listen to a reference CD, then reverse the direction of the fuse and listen to the same reference CD. Your ears will tell you what the best direction is.
Yes, please tell us...
Lenz and Maxwell were both Fascist Neo-Cons who repressed the electron's civil rights to generate magnetic fields. Bestowing these sole rights to the electric current.
We also denounce Nikola Tesla as an agent of repression in adding the above
This is no longer tolerable in the 21st Century ! We demand The UN gives full restitution of the electron as the defacto generator of magnetism.
Popular Electron Liberation Front.
Audiophile's who run their systems off AC rather than batteries are cranks.Pictures make it all so clear, Rick
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