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In Reply to: Re: Best cable from breaker box to Oyaide R1 outlet posted by posbwp55@msn.com on May 4, 2007 at 15:37:24:
Bart....they are both 10-gauge, solid-core offerings. Here are the primary differences:The Acrolink utilizes 6/9's copper, the Oyaide is continuous-cast, single-crystal copper. The Oyaide (a round cable) is made with an integral ground wire (plus the shielding), the Acrolink (a flat cable) is extruded in a heavy dielectric without shielding, and requires an external ground wire.
Hope this additional info is helpful.
Follow Ups:
Hi Alan:Can you provide third party listings recognized by OSHA in the USA for these two imported cables you and lotus offer in the US for residential branch circuit wiring?
Thanks for the clarification.
In my set up, I am using JPS Labs In Wall AC cables....it is very flexible for a thick cable...no wrestling required and sound is clean and great...I ran 90 feet from the mains to my wall, bending and twisting and the electrician did it quick time....i live outside the US so I did not have to put the cable into the wall as everything is concrete out here...
you can go to the JPS website for more info....Not affiliated with JPS labs but just a happy user.
or products called 'in-wall' are meaningless terms, at least in the US.We use 'Exposed' and 'Concealed' as installation enviroments, and 'Types' to define a wire construction; each of which has defined conditions of Exposed and Concealed installation methods (or prohibitions of installation.)
None of the 'in-wall' power I've seen are defined as US Types. The jps stuff appears - based on the metric dimensions - to be some euro imported stuff, twisted pair or triad based on the jacket appearance. Twisted pair AC wiring certainly has some appeal, but the rest of the vauge info on this product makes it a non-starter. Some props for at least specifying a voltage and temperature rating of the insulation on this stuff. Other products can't even do that.
All of these non-listed products would have to undergo testing per UL 719, Standard for Nonmetallic-Sheathed Cables, (since that is what they are.) They would be evaluated and tested for flammability, dielectric voltage-withstand, cold temp unwinding, pulling through joists, conductor pullout, and jacket abrasion resistance. Obviously, the life of NM cable on a residential install is not very tender.
So for good reason, Type NM cables per NEC 2005 are required to be Listed.
Everything you ever wanted to know about US building wiring types can be be found in ULs Wire and Cable Marking Guide.
Sorry Acrolink are much better
Do take a leaf from this user ;-)
Pospwb55,Attached below are some articles on cable set up...and noted some are about JPS LAbs AC Wall products...
Hotbird added his suggestion for Oyadie/Acrolink....I have seen his site and added his Mint LP suggestions too...
I am no electrical expert and just use my ears to guide me...In my set up, I run a dedicated box with 2 x 32 amp lines...One with JPS Labs In Wall AC cable and the other with ROmex type cables (6mm dia per cable or 8 guage)...this is to ensure no possiblity of the cable burning due to the high amps...
I use the JPS line to power my Monoblocks direct from wall to amps...this is using a plain Hubbell outlet...I used to use Furutech Gold...
For the other Romex type line, it goes into a Hubbell inlet too...then goes into my Sound Application RLS 240 conditioner (Passive) that feeds my digital set top box, Universal player, TV, and pre amp...
For both these lines....the music flows and there is no noticable loss of dynamics to the music..yes...i have tried plugging everything direct into the wall too (without the SA RLS 240 unit)..
Jim Weil of Sound Application (www.soundapplication.com) was the one who "interviewed" my set up by asking lots of questions (sent him pictures too of the wiring and box) as the US codes and codes in my country are different...
He suggested using the plain old Hubbells due to the fact that the brass connectors have very high conductivity and the fact that they are not coated, means no coloration of sound...he also thinks that cryo'ing dries up the sound...
I will not bore anyone with the detail of this/my set up as the thread is asking for the right type of cable and to be done right from the beginning...so this is some information to share in my journey...
Hotbrid, I guess we are both wrong....in your "advice from mint.lp", he says British cables sound best...yours is japanese and mine is US....LOL....and I am sure the sound you have is golden/silver/rhodium, as is mine...LOL
http://www.jps-labs.com/actheory.shtml
http://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazine/equipment/1206/ps_audio_jps_labs.htm
http://www.audionut.net/documents/KharmaCeramique2.2LoudspeakerbyRickBecker.pdf.pdf
http://www.mintlp.com/wild/elecoutlet.htm
http://www.audiomax-ltd.com/customwire.htm
http://www.stereophile.com/news/11164/
http://www.gearslutz.com/board/high-end/62945-wall-outlets.html
http://recforums.prosoundweb.com/index.php/m/191393/0/
http://www.hometheaterplanning.com/room.htm
Posbwp55, may I suggest that you contact Acrolink/oyaide/JPS Labs(i spoke with Joe before making the decision)...this is the interesting part in understanding the philosopy of the design behind the cables.
Search the threads on Audiogon and AudioAsylum...I have even emailed soem of the members on their feedback too and this is a great community of sharing...
Hope this helps....
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