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I just rope caulked the horns in my Speakers, metal horns too.
I am not sure I like the effect ?
The sound is smoother, but less alive sounding.
The horns I caulked are small Sansui Tweeter.midrange horn/driver combo.
Perhaps Sansui took the resonances into account when they made this horn/driver combo.
It really has lost it's magick, although it is smoother.
Any comments ?
Follow Ups:
like car mechanics use!
then you can TELL when enough is enough.
And, damp the motor where its own vibes start.
Isolating each horn/throat from lower bass resonances, from other elements of each system - is best. Saves on rope-caulk on mid and treble throat and motors!
WarmestTimbo in Oz
The Skyptical Mensurer and Audio ScroungerAnd gladly would he learn and gladly teach - Chaucer. ;-)!
'Still not saluting.'
http://www.theanalogdept.com/tim_bailey.htm
with 511 (not bolted to baffle) and propped on top of bassbin, the horn will have enormous ringing adding considerable "bite" to piano chords and some vocals -- - a heavy application of mortite takes the ring out but sounds awful in its own way leaving a curious mix of metal and goop sounds(one of the worst things in my mind are drum kits wrapped with soft-plastic)
most speaker things "resonate" so do a little bit of damping at a time
I've found to really knock out the ringing in a 511b, the 3 welds in the sectoral vanes have to be cut. The amount of external damping then required to eliminate self resonance is dramatically reduced. I applied a few coats of rubberized automotive under-coating on the external surfaces and filled in the cut welds with automotive seam sealer before repainting the horn. Looks like a factory new horn but no ringing. Rope caulk is very effective at damping too but I hate the look on an exposed horn.
-Ed
A copper, how do like that boys, a copper. And his name is Fallon.
I caulked a pair of 511B horns I had some time ago and found it did smooth the sound albeit the change was small. The liveliness you are referring to is probably an abberation of the sound- not what is really there.
maybe horns are a bit like a musical instrument, they need to impart some vibration to produce that 'live' feeling.
The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves, but wiser people so full of doubts.
Bertrand Russell
"maybe horns are a bit like a musical instrument, they need to impart some vibration to produce that 'live' feeling."
I don't think so. I wonder how much many horns are really vibrating anyway, especially heavy ones used with 1" drivers and bolted solidly to baffles. Can a 1.75" aluminum diaphragm really exert that much force? I wonder.
Horn damping often seems to be something people do because it's so easy to do, maybe with benefit but probably often with none. I damped the lips of the 811s in my Nineteens, it's easy enough to glob some modeling clay in there and it can't hurt. But is it actually doing anything? I doubt it.
The issue with the Altec horns is the "Bell" sound you get
Just knock one with your knuckle and you will hear it
Damping the horn to eliminate this problem has bee a common practice even
in the pro audio world for many years
It is not snake oil
"The issue with the Altec horns is the "Bell" sound you get
Just knock one with your knuckle and you will hear it"
No shit.
snake oil?
The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves, but wiser people so full of doubts.
Bertrand Russell
The perfect horn would function simply as a immovable boundary for the air column, neither adding nor subtracting energy. The tar filled multicellulars were an ambitious, expensive assault on that goal, no snake oil in sight :^) . They really do work well.
Cast aluminum can do the job if it is thick and heavy enough to resist being set into motion by the pressures in the horn. RCA-fan's excellent AH! horns are probably the best current example. The original circa 1953 Altec H-811 was not too bad- it was actually heavier than the tar filled horn it replaced. Later ones got progressively thinner and more ringy though.
Those horns (which I've owned) used large format drivers and were sled mounted, not bolted to a baffle.
I'm'a thinkin' a sled mounted horn using a large format driver crossed at 500 is more prone to vibration than a baffle mounted horn using a small format driver crossed at 1200.
What do you think?
which I agree with. I tap my horns with the head of a screwdriver. If it rings like a bell, I caulk it till it don't. Doesn't take all that much, and I don't overdo it.
Of course, I have the horn out, not bolted to the speaker then. So the extra mechanical contact should make it even more rigid, and ring a bit less.
Just my opinion, mind you.
The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves, but wiser people so full of doubts.
Bertrand Russell
;-)
But what else is reaching the motor and horn, from the bass?
WarmestTimbo in Oz
The Skyptical Mensurer and Audio ScroungerAnd gladly would he learn and gladly teach - Chaucer. ;-)!
'Still not saluting.'
http://www.theanalogdept.com/tim_bailey.htm
"But what else is reaching the motor and horn, from the bass?"
Good question and a possibility perhaps best ignored. ;-)
Is the Altec 19 a Metal or Fiberglass Horn ?
Reason I ask is I have damped fiberglass horns, heard little difference.
But metal horns the difference was more pronounced.
I have never left it on, because I don't like it's effect.
I plan to pull it off.
No permanent harm done.
Aluminum horn, 811B. 6 solid bolts to baffle.
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