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4.254.72.64
I built 2 pair this one doesnt have fe126e installed yet.My boy likes his pair.I know K slots big but sound was best this way.
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Really well done. If it sounds half as good as it looks, you're golden!
Cheers.
Thank you,when finished will have a grille over K slot and brass screws to hold removable front K slot.Iam direct wiring this pair with nordost cables.Next week if I remember will post a finished pic only allowed 1 pic a week per AA rules I think, maybe Iam wrong?
whatever gives the best sound and keeps the reverb is good - I had to use 1.2" gap on a narrow 18Khow does it sound on vocals and things like acoustic guitar?
btw -I was up all night listening to an 8" in fake Druid sized pipe on classic piano and its a hell a lot worse than K15 with a good coax -
is that kute kabinet one you might share with the fullrange folks? - -looks like you might have a horizontal slot at top
I'm trying to get JL to build another K10 but they ideally probably need to have removable innards to adjust things - I want ot see if "going higher" does much to 3rd Z peak and cavity peaking
Double slots both are horizontal we mostly listen to rock or Dolly P on the Ks my boy realy loves Dolly and now David Alen Cole;) I have 4 designs in house for fe126e all are very diferant from each other in sound all have +- the ks got snap but is directional hifrequincy is slightly reduced over my other fe126e projects still sound is fun and entertaining cabinet sings along a bit but is all french polished I even finished inside this helped greatly with hifrequincys if I didnt do so would need a tweeter.This is the smallest of the fe126e projects but it doesnt sound small at all bested the fe127e bookself that is near the same size.If ones looking for a 2nd or 3rd system, rear channels ,computer speakers or just a small system a mini K would work very well.
I got pretty good sound from 18" in K15 size coupler 21.5W by 32H x 20D - it could throw a good shockwave in my little room with an 18" a bit iighter in mass than Sigmayou 'should' start on big K with K15 or could try a curved panel like Fig6 k18 for Sigma using quarter ellipse panel - - curved might not be better than straight panel plus deflector (????) K12 sounded better with a 12" than same 12 in X15 (little cabinet 28x14x19)
my 18K below had a big dip wihtout a front shelf but sounded good - a front shelf poked in front alters that 250Hz dip and makes it more like K15 in measurement and tone. a rear lowpass shelf may be used to good advantage and its area adjusted with clean drum and plucked upright bass trax to maximize transient response. The cabinet below worked fine without it but it probalby would have helped subjectively and doesn't have to be permanent
18" in K15 can have a bit more at 60Hz and bit less down low - play mellow & phat - - kill all my feeble FR -- unless JL cuts a good BLH I wont' be able to hang with FR
did you try an upper deflector to see if it'd help focus more of the coupler's upper half indirect HF energy to the slot?
Yes this mini K has one;)
did you tilt the mini-K's portboard forwards about 10 degrees? one of my fave Karlson is the first K12 form 1955 - I had a blueprint but think my kid threw it out. Its the same size and tapers (42.5" radius) as later K12 but had a reversible perpendicular port board with lip on one side plus a 3-position wood bar on the rear panel to vary its lowpass choke action - - maybe this would scale to 10" giving high cutoff but a lot of punch (?) - - I need one in mahagony "Karlsonite" to make a pairvent was a horizontal slot 15/16" high and full-width (minus ~1.5" for two pine cleats) it wculd sing on bowed bass despite no low bass
cabinet was ~insert with 5/8" plywood outer walls laminated to 1/8" hardboard inner layer and formica outer layer - this cost big money ^~$87 in 1955)
sideview 1955 K12
I hand drew up the plans but if ones wants I might beable to find my napkins and draw up something better, if someone realy wants to explore K cab design maybe best to just mess about on your own;)You have so much info up and its fun to exparament.The fronts removable screws are not installed thus the slight gap on top baffle when its all tighten its gone.They sound snappy seems to be slightly louder than my other fe126e projects maybe a bit oh gain from cab + K slot??? Just listened have not measured. Thanks again for faning the K flames.
you sure do good work - - I've got K8 and klam 8 no low bass with little rear chamber yet drums sound like they're really doing something as opposed to a speaker in a tall pipe.build a K15, load with decent coax and use for reference to see if you can "beat it" with a new coupler
I hate K but far less than some other types :^)
save your nap K in - I think folks ares chicken to approach Karlson - type
I was too chicken to build a large pair... But nothing ventured nothing gained.If they sucked at the least I would have learned something and who can put a price on knowledge.
big (~8cf-9CF tops so far and really not much diff than K15) are when I figured they can take down some horn - someone with patience might have fun and K15 is already better than Klipschorn and a 15CF horn I built - downside is with certain recordings reverb will 'echo' --- upside it'll help on a lot on many recordings and K15 plays fine with all of Alan Parson's soundcheck CD trax which supposely aren't artifically sweetenedmore tilt according to Karlson gives - "more LF", "more reverb", "worse tansient response" - - 20-30 degrees is normal range
I think K15 size could be built with less tilt - result might just be different - - 23 degree baffle, 10 degree port board will work - a top deflector panel or curved piece per Fig 6 of 3540544 may be needed
you're a good Daddy to build K :^)
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