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Tweakers' Asylum Tweaks for systems, rooms and Do It Yourself (DIY) help. FAQ. |
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Tweakers' Asylum Tweaks for systems, rooms and Do It Yourself (DIY) help. FAQ. |
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In Reply to: Re: Mr Risch et al- What characterizes a pro interconnect termination? posted by Coffeecupman on May 18, 2007 at 17:10:55:
Not "Gas Free", but "Gas Tight" meaning that the crimp is so tightly made that that gasses and vapors, especially sulfur bearing, cannot penetrate the crimped joint. I usually solder @ about 450 deg. F. (I have a temp controlled iron). In successful soldering your iron MUST heat the work, the iron must NEVER melt the solder or you are most likely to end up with a 'cold joint', which is very bad news. It goes without saying that when soldering, the surfaces to be soldered MUST be clean. I use a kitchen-type nylon scouring pad to clean the pcb surface and the component leads to be soldered. When soldering a component to a pcb my process is as follows : Heat the iron to the proper temp, clean the tip of the iron on a damp sponge; tin the iron generously and holding the iron at about a 45 deg. angle to the pcb apply it to the surface of the pcb next to the component's lead but not touching it and after several seconds touch the end of the solder to the pcb close to the component lead; if the solder tip melts add a bit more solder to the iron's tip and move the iron into contact with the component's lead and the pcb; after several seconds move the tip of the solder against the lead ONLY; if the solder melts complete the joint by applying a bit more solder and the joint is completed; remove the iron. It sounds much more complicated than it is.For general Component soldering I prefer 0.062 (1/16") dia. solder with it's own flux in the solder. Which brings up another point : after finishing your solder and the work has cooled the flux from the solder has solidified on the pcb, etc and should be removed. To remove small amounts of flux I use a dental pick and small brass brush. For large amounts of flux I have found that the gel type waterless hand cleaner does an excellent job providing there are no water sensitive parts on the pcb. Spread a generous dollop of cleaner to the bottom of the pcb and let the pcb sit for 10 or so minutes and remove the cleaner/flux with running water and a stiff bristled tooth brush.Heat shrink tubing comes in very handy but I don't think you have any choice as to its' Dielectric Absorbtion factor. I use an instant on/instant off propane torch to shrink the tubing, but you can use any good heat source. For flammable areas I have a heat gun. However, you can find various diameters of teflon tubing, with various DA and you could apply the appropriate size teflon tubing and then shrink tubing to seal the ends. Teflon has a high resistance to heat so you can't shrink teflon tubing, when it gets hot enough it simply melts.
Happy Happying !
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Follow Ups
- Re: Mr Risch et al- What characterizes a pro interconnect termination? - pkell44 19:28:06 05/18/07 (0)
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