Home Tweakers' Asylum

Tweaks for systems, rooms and Do It Yourself (DIY) help. FAQ.

Thanks for a good summary. Allow me to add a couple of points.

The outlets should be as good as your and John's budgets allow. The best in my experience are the Oyaide. However, if another type, they should not have steel parts or nickel plating. A good budget outlet with these properties is the Pass & Seymour MRI hospital grade.

If mounted to a conducting plate, the outlets should be mounted with a conducting (nonmagnetic) screw at one end only. The other end should have a Nylon washer and screw to avoid making a conducting loop out of the outlet's back strap and the mounting plate. Current passes through the hot and neutral wires on either side of the outlet's back strap, so a conducting loop will act as a one-turn transformer. Even if the back strap is not magnetic, this parasitic transformer will cause distortion in the AC.

IME, it is difficult to damp the acoustic ringing of thick aluminum plate. Such materials as Dynamat X-treme are optimized for the thin sheet metal of auto bodies, and are ineffective on thicker materials. A sandwich of thinner plates and a sheet of Deflex rubber would be quiet and sturdy.

Finally, I've found from a recommendation and through experience that the best audio conductor size is 14-gauge. The famous Volex 17604 IEC cord is no longer made in Mexico, and I've not seen any reports on the audio performance of the Chinese replacement (but the report of nickel-plated plug blades is disturbing). Ace Hardware sells a short 14-gauge extension cord with an unplated, molded, right-angle plug. Cutting the outlet off this would make a cheap but effective line cord for the type of DIY outlet box we are discussing. I don't have experience with the Oyaide plugs, but I worry that any screw-clamp connection would be inferior to the welded connections used with molded plugs.


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